Punk is back.....We owe it all to Vivienne Westwood.

Dame Vivienne Westwood (1941-) has become known as one of the most influential British Fashion designer of all time. This reputation has stemmed from her subversive collection in the early 1970's, garments reflecting a generations reaction towards the current social equipoise. A cursory glance through her archive roots back to the 70's, her most formative association is with sub-cultural fashion of teenage rebellion, in which Vivienne gave birth to punk. This is a glance back to the birth of offensive t-shirts, tartan trousers and for the first time ever..... clothes acting as a voice. 

A young Vivienne Westwood in the 1970's:

Vivienne began designing clothes in 1971 with the opening of her first shop, Let it Rock, at 420 King's Road, London. A boutique selling offensive ripped T-shirts, bondage gear and other attire that became synonymous with the punk explosion. Designs combining unconformity however still carrying a sense of British tradition. This tradition was used as a parody of establishment styles,  for example her use of tweed and tartan knowingly a prestigious British print. Along with historical garments such as the corset and crinoline.

Malcom McLaren, Westwood's boyfriend was just as responsible as Vivienne for this punk explosion during the early 70's. McLarens New York background, ultimately influenced his radical aesthetic of punk, rooted by social-economic disparities during that period. As Westwood's relationship with Malcolm developed so did the courageousness of her collections,"I latched onto Malcolm as somebody who opened doors for me," Westwood said. "I mean, he seemed to know everything I needed at the time." He would lecture her on the political power of art and encourage her to translate this idea into her clothes. In 1974 Let It Rock was re-branded to SEX, which became synonymous with the most culturally significant street style of the second half of the 20th century. Ideas submitted through this new punk ideology were changing the youths attitude to dominance and authority, London now had a new way of rebelling, using clothes as self-expression.

This new defining youth culture of anti-establishment lead by Vivienne became a commercial success. Westwood boyfriends career in managing the Sex Pistols coincided with the clothing, the band being advocates of Vivienne's clothing helped promote the rise of punk fashion. The prosperous symbiotic relationship between music and fashion effectively set the tone of popular culture. 1970's punk rockers such as Marco Pirroni, of the group Adam and the Ants, recalled "The country was a morass of beige and cream Bri-Nylon and their shop was an oasis. It took great liberalism and bravery to wear rubber in the street. If you shopped there, you didn't go anywhere else." This emphasises the importance of Westwood's clothing acting as a catalyst for expressing individual freedom. 

The sex pistols:

Vivienne Westwood's 1977 Collection:

The new crude and explicit clothing were common among Londoners, bondage trousers and offensive t-shirts were worn by the masses. One particular T-shirt, "Two Naked Cowboys", got their friend, the artist Alan Jones arrested, a defining moment of an attempt of the dominant culture trying to force this sub-culture into assimilation. This particular event is proof of a Viviennes collection changing the 70's youths norms and values, a movement of polarisation in which luxury was the answer and foundation to this brand new political stance.

Westwoods clothing is essential in gaining an insight into the late 1970's society, the collection encompasses the cultural movement,  it encapsulated the British youths candid opinion on politics. This exciting explosion of punk is making a comeback in the form of tartan and offensive t-shirts, which is very refreshing. There is only so much 'geek' t-shirts from Topshop paired with leopard print leggings one can take! 

Vivienne Westwood ad campaigns post 1970's

Vivienne Westwood ad campaigns 2013:

Racism in fashion, black isn't the new black...

I was lucky enough to be in the presence of Naomi Campbell at her press conference for 'The Face', due to my internship at Star magazine this September. During the promotion of the show she also spoke out against racism in fashion. She inspired me, and I'm sure many others, to be critical of the general uniform aesthetic presented by the industry. It has been 26 years since Naomi Campbell became the first black model ever to grace the cover of Vogue. This should have marked a stepping stone in the industry, helping to reconstruct the western perspective of beauty. However, the most recent major fashion weeks in New York, London, Paris and Milan this September lacked a balanced diversity of different ethnic models.  

Naomi Campbell's first UK vogue cover

Black supermodels Naomi Campbell and Iman Somali teamed up to launch 'Diversity Coalition' to raise awareness of the lack of ethnic diversity within the industry and to stop racial discrimination. Both spokeswomen state having only one, or no models from different ethnic backgrounds in a catwalk show is a racist act. They named dozens of labels considered to be most at fault of this including Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Marc Jacobs. Last season, 82.7% of models were white at New York Fashion Week, with only 9.1% Asian, 6% black and 2% Latina. Obviously, this should be alarming to many of us, an industry followed by millions, responsible in determining trends of beauty and clothing. This relentless over-representation of the Caucasian look in the mass media as the ultimate beauty has the power to make other ethnicitys look secondary and inferior. 

Spokeswomen Iman Somali states "The absence of people of colour on the runways and photography reinforces to our young girls that they're not beautiful enough, that they're not acceptable enough," to CNN. "The diversity that we live in, the world that we live in, is not what is shown on the runway. That to me is the concern. It's a bigger issue at large than just about runway and models." 

Naomi Campbell explains, "When I started modeling in '86 there was Asians, blacks, whites, Indians, Chinese. It was very diverse," Campbell told CNN. "It's not like that today. It's heart-breaking to me that we're in 2013 and we're sitting here talking about this. But it has to be done and people need to know."

Naomi Campbell and Iman Somali should be praised for recognising this flaw in the fashion industry, as well as being courageous as to speaking against designers who are in a position of influence in the industry. Racism isn't over. The fashion industry hold a huge fragment within the mass media, both being a powerful tool in our youths socialisation. A Korean teenage girl growing up in modern day Britain should not be made to feel ugly just because her look isn't as celebrated in the media as a white persons. The flow of images created by the industry isn't restricted to the western world either, it reaches even the remotest of areas. This is why it is a good cause that these supermodels are speaking out and pointing fingers, recognising the lack of non-white models used in campaigns and catwalks. Potentially this has a platform to change the way we view ourselves. We should celebrate all ethnicity's equally. Also we should not underestimate the fashion industry's role in culture imperialism, effecting how some individuals perceive themselves and others around them. 

Naomi Campbell on racism to Channel 4:

Burberry Prorsum: Runway review

We are in the midst of London Fashion week,  and no brand epitomises 'London'  like Burberry does. Burberry Prorsum Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 show clearly demarcated why it is the crown jewel of LFW. Christopher Bailey has a great understanding of London fashion, titling his collection "English Rose" his collection encapsulates the city's culture towards fashion, effortless, minimal, half way between elegant and cool. The September 16, 2013 show was a feast for the eyes (and this isn't just because Mr Harry Styles was sitting front row). 

Burberry Prorsum SS14:

Alison Mosshart (The Kills), Paloma Faith, Sienna Miller and Harry Styles

Under a glass house in London’s Hyde Park, Bailey payed homage to the rich fabrics of the UK, the pieces featured intricate English Lace and Scottish Knitted cashmere in vibrant pastels and soft powdery hues creating an ultra feminine collection. The collection is chalk-and-cheese from last seasons virile animals prints and rubber trenchcoats finished with gold-coloured belts and metal epaulets, it was subversively pretty, noticeably softer.  

Burberry Prorsum Womenswear SS 14:

There was a retro beauty about the collection, what with its cardigans as outerwear, wrap coats, lace pencil skirts and knot dresses. Paired with rubber strapped high-heel sandals and elongated “petal” clutches, Bailey transformed the house’s iconic trenchcoats into cocktail dresses and one chic pencil skirt with embroidered cutouts. Bejeweled belts were sprinkled liberally throughout, in the finale Cara Delevingne donned a plastic raincoat bolero beautifully covered in clusters of rhinestones.The collection did a fabulous job of welcoming spring with open arms. Pastel colours combined with textures ranging from wool to lace provided that perfect spring feeling.

Burberry Prorsum SS14 shoes: 

Burberry Prorsum SS14 Cara Delevingne:

NYFW: From Minimalist to Manhatten, to Donna goes to Brooklyn.... And how the Wang was won

It's that time of year again, New York fashion week.  A time for millions (even those not interested in fashion) to totally engross themselves in the designers innovation and art form. It's the week you fully comprehend the description of New York being a city that never sleeps, such a society could never achieve such a mystique of genius while wasting time slumbering. 

An array of designers aroused the usually vacant, expressionless, blackberry addict New Yorkers. From Thom Browne and Y-3, all effortlessly amazing collections for spring. Victoria Beckhams use of minimalism availed to a marvelous collection, however the clothes still had a demeanor of  'posh spice', which is neither a good or bad thing, after all she was always more stylist than vocalist in the spice girls era. After her collection this year Victoria Beckham should be given a greater credibility for her talent as a designer, the more relaxed, but yet still-tailored silhouette balanced the minimalism. 

Victoria Beckham SS14 Backstage: 

Additionally other collections at NYFW such as Marc Jacobs was an exciting showcase as per usual, however the use of Jeffery Lewus new track "what would pussy riot do?" maybe overshadowed the collection. There seems to be more hype surrounding the political statement yearning for youth culture to take a hard look at the art they consume. Combining both a fashion and a political agenda is nothing new, nevertheless it's both brash and refreshing. Marc Jacobs proves his shows are not lacking substance. In contrast to DKNY' show ... Donna hangs out in Brooklyn now apparently. A collection mixing urban gang culture and workout gear and street art, luckily the Donna Karan Collection saved DKNY'S shortcomings. Donna Karan involved super long fringing, geometric patterns and low-slung belts, a wonderful collection. 

Marc Jacobs ss14 backstage:

DKNY ss14:

Donna Karan ss14: 

No one, and I write this with a steady hand and a straight face, came close to stealing the spot light like Alexander Wang did this week. Wang showcased 38 pieces, all outstanding and show stopping. As well as incorporating the 90’s comeback trend, Wang’s vision of “cool-girl-who-just-rolled-out of-bed look”, or “escaped-from-hospital-bed chic,” or even the “all-my-clothes-were-dirty-so-I-stole-my boyfriends-boxers style.” The triangle of skin introduces a new dimension of sexy, and it’s clear that the 90’s aren’t going anywhere. Wang also adds a masculine element into this collection with soft men’s shirting. However, this is done playfully  with unbuttoned shirts and boxer shorts playing an ode the classic 90’s midriff. The 2014 RTW collection maintains Alexander’s classic asymmetrical silhouettes whilst still embodying everyday street style. There's something about Wang's shoes that would make any fashionistas heart skip a beat. The silhouette, the chunky heel, the platform, oh and how the leather glistens.. perfection. Highlights included Georgia May Jagger in the Parental Advisory see through pullover, also Erin Wasson closing the show in a perforated, pleated overall dress. I’ll give it less than two weeks before every one in NYC, London, Paris, Tokyo will be sporting clothes inspired by this collection. 

You can watch the Youtube Video of Alexander Wangs ss14 Collection here:

Alexander Wang ss14:

The reasoning behind this 'fashion blog' is to prove my embryonic artistic ability of journalistic work and my underlying infatuation for the fashion industry.  I'm Savannah Wales, 18 years old, located in the soul destroying Milton Keynes (it's actually a really nice place to live), and I just pulled out of university 4 days before I was supposed to attend. Although it was a rash monumental decision..... I didn't want to become 'that' person who looks back on their life and regrets the aspirations they ignored or were too scared to seize. 

Also I didn't want to be broke, unemployed, after a useless geography degree from an OKAY university. And I don’t wannabe 26 flicking through vogue, day dreaming about what ifs. I want a career in fashion journalism and I intend to die trying. People have said I’m totally courageous and respect my choice, change of heart, me following my dreams. Others are highly critical, telling me I’ve made a mistake. However, you can't be tormented by others opinions, you have to persevere in what you love and what's right for you. Life's too short.